Brazil does books as well as football At the recent launch event for FlipSide, a festival of Brazilian literature and culture in the Suffolk village of Snape, Brazil's ambassador to the UK aired a grievance. He had just visited the embassy of Argentina, and had been shown a… Jun 05 14June 05, 2014Article at the Guardian
What now for Carlos Drummond de Andrade, Brazil's national poet? Every time I'm in Rio, I make sure I go to Copacabana. Not for the sand, or the sunshine – though there's plenty of both – but to pay my respects to Brazil's best-loved poet, Carlos Drummond de Andrade. A statue of Drummond has been sitting on the… Nov 13 12November 13, 2012Article at the Guardian
Barcelona, city of books: A literary hub built on rich history and skillsIn 1860, a former labourer from the Catalan provinces founded a publishing company in Barcelona. José Espasa, who had worked demolishing the old city walls, would go on to print Spain’s first encyclopedia. “From building to publishing: that has been… Mar 21 11March 21, 2011Article at Financial Times
Lisbon’s beguiling Belém districtLisbon is best approached by water. Like the Portuguese capital itself, the Lisbon suburb of Belém ought to be seen, first, from across that ever-widening brown-yellow river: the Tejo, the Tagus, the “sea of straw”. It is worth boarding one of the… Apr 03 10April 03, 2010Article at Financial Times
Lessons in horse-handling at Wimpole HallI am not a horse person. This is not because I dislike horses – I find them impressive and noble creatures. I simply didn’t grow up around them. My contact was limited to the occasional horseback outing: a leisurely walk, a brisk trot and, if I was… Sep 12 09September 12, 2009Article at Financial Times
On a dragonfly safari in Wicken FenAfter a few days of sunny sweetness, the temperature has taken a dip. It is early July, and above me is a classic East Anglian sky – blustery, and covered by grey cumuli. This is not ideal weather for dragonfly spotting, which is what brings me to… Aug 08 09August 08, 2009Article at Financial Times
Punting, the Cambridge wayPunting is not as easy as it looks. I know this because I’ve seen the tourists on the River Cam, unable to navigate their flat-bottomed vessels in a straight line, even when sober. I know it, too, because I was once one of those Cambridge students… Jul 18 09July 18, 2009Article at Financial Times
Alfresco stargazing“Naturism is not condoned on this beach,” the sign says. It’s just as well, given the late hour and the fierce wind blowing off the Thames Estuary. I am grateful for this wind, which has cleared the sky in the middle of a wet August week, making my… Aug 30 08August 30, 2008Article at Financial Times
A modern, wild journey: An East Anglian Walk with Robert MacfarlaneRain has been forecast all week, but on the day the weather is benign and summery. Tepid air and a grey-blue East Anglian sky offer the perfect climate for a vigorous walk along Fleam Dyke, a four-mile defensive barrier built by Saxons 1,200 years… Jul 05 08July 05, 2008Article at Financial Times
Architect of optimism: An interview with Oscar NiemeyerCentenary years are a common excuse to celebrate an artist’s work. Centenary celebrations honouring artists who are still alive - and professionally active - are much rarer. Brazil’s most famous architect, Oscar Niemeyer, will turn 100 in December.… Apr 13 07April 13, 2007Article at Financial Times
The boy from Ipanema: Putting the right foot first in Rio de Janeiro's CarnivalIn a city known for its hedonism, it is the biggest party of all. Celebrated in music and immortalised in film, Rio de Janeiro’s carnival draws hundreds of thousands of revellers from all over the world. During four days (this year it’s next… Feb 09 07February 09, 2007Article at Financial Times
Santa Teresa: Bohemia, with a Brazilian beatIf you manage to resist the allure of Rio de Janeiro’s beaches, head for the bohemian neighbourhood of Santa Teresa. There are many ways of getting there. You can drive. You can jump on a tourist jeep. But nothing beats the bondinho or tram. Climb… Mar 10 06March 10, 2006Article at Financial Times
Words on the street: Books and policing in Mexico CityThe back of a police motorcycle speeding through the outskirts of the world’s largest city is not the most obvious place to discuss one’s favourite books. Yet I am doing just that with Benito Espinoza, commander of the motorised patrol group in… Mar 03 06March 03, 2006Article at Financial Times
Hobby horses: A short journey into 'living history'I am queuing outside a portable toilet behind a Viking and a Roman legionary. The air is thick with the fatty smell of spit-roasts from a nearby Norman encampment. Over the sound system, an excited narrator gives a real-time, blow-by-blow account of… Sep 23 05September 23, 2005Article at Financial Times
Brazil’s rich literary tradition (or Flipping in Parati)For five days in July, the Brazilian seaside town of Parati hosted some of the world’s most celebrated authors. Where else might one spot Paul Auster and Siri Hustvedt tripping over colossal cobbles while Margaret Atwood fingered dresses and geared… Oct 01 04October 01, 2004Article at Financial Times