The Good, the Bad, & the UnrecognizableMaremma is a region in southwest Tuscany, regarded as Italy's Wild West. It is also a recently opened Italian restaurant in the West Village, where chef Cesare Casella presides in the kitchen. Mr. Casella grew up in his hometown of Lucca watching… Aug 24 05August 24, 2005Article at The New York Sun
Prime CutsIt only dawned on me as I was seated under the vaulted glass ceiling at BLT Prime, Laurent Tourondel's third bistro installment in his steak-and-seafood triptych, that long before this space was Rocco DiSpirito's career-launching Union Pacific, it… Jul 27 05July 27, 2005Article at The New York Sun
High ArtIt's unlikely that anyone will just stumble into Alto, chef Scott Conant's new high-reaching Italian restaurant, given its hidden entrance on East 53rd Street. The reservationist was careful to warn me that, even though the restaurant's address is… Jul 13 05July 13, 2005Article at The New York Sun
Over the RiverAs the sun began its descent over the Palisades the other night, it cast an amber glow across the West Side of Manhattan that made the Empire State Building shimmer as if it were filled to the tippy-top with lava. Such is the enviable view from Lua,… Jun 22 05June 22, 2005Article at The New York Sun
American, With a French Accenthe name of celebrity chef Bobby Flay's latest venture - Bar Americain - is the Parisian phrase for a venue that serves liquor as well as beer and wine. As such, the new Bar Americain on 52nd Street features a serious bar, smack-dab in the middle of… Jun 08 05June 08, 2005Article at The New York Sun
To Mamma, With LoveAma stands out on its quiet, quaint little stretch of MacDougal Street like a Time Square billboard, the wattage of its glow seemingly in the thousands. In contrast to the dimly lit, romantic eateries nearby, Ama is bold, brash, and raucous, replete… May 04 05May 04, 2005Article at The New York Sun
Catalan ChicClearly, the team behind Barna at the Hotel Giraffe has a nose for trends - or at least for how to put a fresh spin on an existing trend. While all things Spanish have been hot since Patria introduced us to ceviche a decade ago, Barna taps the energy… Apr 20 05April 20, 2005Article at The New York Sun
Reclaiming the CrownLaurent Tourendel has finally opened the top-floor formal dining room of his fish-focused bistro BLT Fish, two floors above the already-acclaimed lobster shack-themed eatery on the first floor. The top tier's opening would seem a fitting metaphorical… Mar 30 05March 30, 2005Article at The New York Sun
Museum-Quality RestaurantThe Modern at MoMA is a magnificently conceived restaurant, bringing together the elan and pedigree of a Danny Meyer restaurant (his Union Square Hospitality Group, whose properties include Gramercy Tavern and Union Square Cafe, invested $10 million)… Mar 23 05March 23, 2005Article at The New York Sun
Found in TranslationNow that Jeffery Chodorow has finally severed all ties with chef Rocco DiSpirito, he's cast his net for another Italian chef to install in the giant space that he opened in fall 2000 as Tuscan Steak (emphasis on beef), which in early 2003 became just… Mar 16 05March 16, 2005Article at The New York Sun
Back In the GameWhen Guastavino's opened back in February of 2000 it got a good deal of publicity for two reasons. The first was the owner, British design guru Sir Terence Conran. The second was the venue itself, a restored vaulted Catalan arcade built 97 years ago… Mar 09 05March 09, 2005Article at The New York Sun
An Authentic French BistroThe reason for the buzz surrounding Bistro du Vent, a bustling little bistro on 42nd Street west of Ninth Avenue, is obvious once you know who's behind the restaurant - namely Mario Batali, Joseph Bastianich, and David Pasternack. Messrs. Batali and… Feb 23 05February 23, 2005Article at The New York Sun
Sea WorthyBLT Fish, the new eatery from chef Laurent Tourondel, has only been open for two weeks, but it's already hot. On the frigid night I popped in for dinner last week, the wait for tables was two hours, which didn't seem to bother anyone at the bar,… Jan 26 05January 26, 2005Article at The New York Sun
From Tartes to TunaJoseph's, as far as monikers go, is sort of like that of Prince, who for a time was "the artist formerly known as Prince" - Joseph's is the restaurant formerly known as Citarella. But even when Prince was known as "the artist" he still acted like… Jan 19 05January 19, 2005Article at The New York Sun
Changing of the GuardWhen we last visited chef Brian Bistrong in these pages, back in 2002, he was manning the kitchen at Citarella the Restaurant (now Joseph's), where his laser-focused French-Asian creations reflected the masterful influence of David Bouley (Mr.… Jan 05 05January 05, 2005Article at The New York Sun
Hip ConceptBar Tonno's facade on sleepy Cleveland Place is so unassuming I walked past it twice. Then I noticed the 8-foot-high aquarium in the window sporting live sharks and stingrays. Given the name, which means "tuna" in Italian and "king" in Japanese, the… Dec 01 04December 01, 2004Article at The New York Sun
Small PlatesIn Bleecker and Carmine streets, in a neighborhood packed with bustling, casually convivial eateries, cool, calm Citron is nothing like its neighboring restaurants. The restaurant has a softly lit, pale-green decor, with minimalist, abstract artwork… Nov 24 04November 24, 2004Article at The New York Sun
Making Waves in SoHoLure Fishbar is the latest attempt by Lever House partners John McDonald and Josh Pickard to reel diners into the storied space formerly occupied by the Guggenheim Museum's SoHo outpost. Mr. McDonald should be given credit for his tenacity given the… Nov 03 04November 03, 2004Article at The New York Sun
Kunz's ReturnFor those who, like myself, have been waiting so long for Café Gray to open, at the Time Warner Center, its eventful opening three weeks ago posed an inevitable question: Was it worth the wait? After the meal I had there last week, I'd have to say… Oct 27 04October 27, 2004Article at The New York Sun
Iberian InspirationPractically every restaurant and bar along the gentrified Lower East Side strip of Ludlow Street between Houston and Delancey has its doors flung wide open, its music blaring, and its customers milling out onto the sidewalk, perhaps looking for more… Oct 20 04October 20, 2004Article at The New York Sun
