As a frequent traveller to Singapore, I’m often asked by family and friends about where to stay and what to do. This is my chance to compile all those texts and notes into something useful for the readers of Travel.
DINING ETIQUETTE
- If you or anyone in your group can’t use chopsticks, pack disposable cutlery and napkins in snap lock bags to use at the hawker stalls.
- It’s common to be provided with a wet wipe in many places but not napkins.
- Take antibacterial handwipes or buy some cheap ones on arrival at a local Watsons or Guardian Pharmacy. I sometimes purchase from the elderly or disadvantaged tissue sellers at food centres.
- People “chope” tables by leaving bags, sunglasses or tissue packs on them to hold the table while ordering food. The table is not abandoned.
- Return your tray after eating at hawker stalls.
WHERE TO EAT
Chicken Rice Everyone talks about Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice at Maxwell Food Centre. I don’t think it is worth queuing for but if you must, here’s how to find it: tiantianchickenrice.com.sg. Instead, try Hainanese Delicacy, 5th floor, Far East Plaza, 14 Scotts Rd, off Orchard Road.
Chilli Crab For decades I made the trek to the east coast to eat crab by the water at Jumbo or Long Beach. There are now Jumbo locations at Ion Orchard and Changi Airport. I prefer black pepper to chilli. jumboseafood.com
Food Tour There’s nothing like a walking food tour to get a sense of place. A few years ago, I did one of Chinatown with Tribe Tours. tribe-tours.com
Janice Wong Creative chef Janice Wong makes delectable cakes and chocolates. Her 2am: DessertBar is open until 2am and she also has a cafe at the Supertree Observatory. janicewong.online
Kueh and Pandan Chiffon Cake Local layered sweets from Subway Niche at Wisma Atria or a slice of light-as-a-feather green chiffon sponge are some of the first things I eat. You can bring whole pandan cakes back from Bengawan Solo at Changi Airport. bengawansolo.sg/stores
Lau Pa Sat More than 130 years old, this heritage centre is also my favourite and sells everything from curry and noodles to western food and beer. Some stalls open 24 hours. Singapore’s biggest open-air satay street is here on Boon Tat Street. It opens at 3pm at weekends but not until 7pm on weekdays. laupasat.sg
Shopping Centre Food Courts Don’t turn up your nose; these places are fantastic value and located near almost every hotel. Look for Food Opera, Food Republic and Food Junction. Fancy Japanese? Make your way to Takashimaya department store in Ngee Ann City. Changi Airport also has multiple food courts. My exception would be the food court at The Shoppes at Marina Bay, which is on the pricier side.
Violet Oon Violet is a Singapore food identity with three elegant restaurants combining Peranakan charm with authentic Nyonya-inspired dishes. Her National Kitchen at the National Gallery is popular with visitors but I’ve only been to Ion Orchard, where you can get high tea for two from $75. violetoon.com
Ya Kun Kaya Toast and Toastbox For a traditional Singapore breakfast of runny eggs and kaya (coconut jam) toast you will find Ya Kun everywhere. At Toast Box, they also have dishes such as roti and chicken curry. app.yakun.com and toastbox.com.sg
Zion Riverside Food Centre I discovered this centre in 2023 via a friend’s social media post. It has great dumplings and is home to the busy No.18 Zion Road Fried Kway Teow. It doesn’t have an official site, so check out this guide from a local foodie: sethlui.com/zion-riverside-food-centre-guide-singapore
WHERE TO DRINK
Atlas Bar This grand art deco bar with a 15m gin tower wouldn’t look out of place in New York. Located in Parkview Square in the Bugis neighbourhood, it’s a great spot for a drink, snack or high tea after exploring colourful Haji Lane. atlasbar.sg
Jigger and Pony Fun and unpretentious, book a seat at the bar, chat to the team and you will quickly realise why this is always on the world’s best lists. jiggerandpony.com
Raffles Having a Singapore Sling or high tea at the luxury heritage hotel opened by the Sarkies brothers in 1887 is a must-do. raffles.com/singapore
WHERE TO SHOP
Orchard Road Block after block of stylish shopping centres house the big brands, department stores, cafes and restaurants. Its Christmas light displays are dazzling.
Chinatown / People’s Park Complex Head here for heritage, local shopping, craft, souvenirs, traditional clothing and snacks etc. Yue Hwa has Tiger Balm in many varieties. chinatown.sg/shop/peoples-park-complex
Tiong Bahru Browse the book shops and cafes of this heritage area, also home to the great two-level Tiong Bahru Food Centre. visitsingapore.com/see-do-singapore/places-to-see/tiong-bahru/
APPS
If you have a smartphone, there are apps that will make getting into and around Singapore a lot smoother. These are available for iPhone and Android unless noted.
Changi App Find your way around the four terminals, get flight updates, find a hawker food court (including the ones open 24 hours), earn points and more.
CDG ZIG The official Comfort DelGro taxi app. Hardly anyone hails taxis on the street or out the front of hotels anymore. You can book on the app at a fixed price.
Explore Singapore MRT See how subway stations link and where you need to change lines. There are many similar free apps; this one has a purple icon with a white m in a circle.
Grab Uber was booted from Singapore, so this is your only alternative to taxis. I’ve used it a few times, but the ZIG prices are often the same or cheaper. Grab also does food delivery.
Guide Michelin You don’t need a lotto winner’s budget to eat Michelin-rated food. This tells you the starred venues as well as highly commended restaurants and hawker outlets. It works anywhere in the world there is a Michelin guide or keys program.
Haze and rain Singapore air quality has been badly impacted due to recent wildfires in Indonesia. Visit haze.gov.sg for updates and consider packing face masks. I always pack a foldable umbrella.
My ICA Your online arrival card can be completed up to 72 hours before landing using the app, or going to the only official site: ica.gov.sg/enter-transit-depart/entering-singapore/sg-arrival-card
Visit Singapore Its app has been retired, so head to visitsingapore.com for the official guide to things to do, neighbourhoods and recommendations.
ATTRACTIONS
Floating Apple Store The world’s only spherical “floating” over-water Apple store at Marina Bay Sands is worth visiting for the photos. apple.com/sg/retail/marinabaysands/
teamLab You don’t need to go to Japan to experience the digital, interactive wonder of teamLab. Future World has been at the ArtScience Museum since 2011. There’s also a standalone exhibition, Infinite Existence, at Tanjong Pagar Distripark until November 8. A new teamLab is set to open at Gardens by the Bay in 2028. teamlab.art/e/artsciencemuseum
The Merlion See if you can capture a playful photo of water coming from your mouth in front of the iconic 8.6m half-lion, half-fish. Find it at 1 Fullerton Road.
Gardens by the Bay Confession: I’ve always loved the Supertree Grove more than the real plants. The free Garden Rhapsody light and sound show takes place nightly at 7.45 and 8.45. Lie down and look up for the best view! gardensbythebay.com.sg
Jewel at Changi Allow time when arriving or departing to check out the world’s tallest indoor waterfall, seasonal displays, shops and more. Look for the early check-in desk to send your bags on their way. jewelchangiairport.com/en.html
Mandai Wildlife Reserve The home of Singapore Zoo, the Night Safari and more, with a focus on conservation and education. The Breakfast in the Wild has moved with the times, offering planet-friendly meals and limiting animal interactions. mandai.com
Marina Bay Sands Sky Park Observation Deck Check out one of the best views of Singapore from level 56 of the famous hotel. Tickets start from $50. For free, you can head to the CapitaSpring Sky Garden on the 51st floor, but tickets must be booked in advance. marinabaysands.com/attractions1-arden.sg/
Sentosa Island It’s years since I have visited but this is a great option for multigenerational family holidays, featuring water and adventure activities, the cable car and Universal Studios. sentosa.com.sg
WHERE TO STAY
This is a subjective topic and depends on your budget and itinerary. If you plan to catch public transport, choose a hotel near an MRT station. Due to Singapore’s humidity, I always choose a hotel with a pool.
Hotel rooms in Singapore can range from squeezy 15-20sqm to more spacious 42sqm and above: photos can be deceiving so check before booking to avoid a shock.
Some of my favourite recent stays include The Artyzen Singapore with its high ceilings and rooftop pool, The Quincy with its infinity pool and quiet semi-residential location, and Crown Plaza Changi for airport convenience.
Many Singapore hotel chains offer substantial member discounts. I’ve stayed at Far East Hospitality and Millennium Hotels properties after booking during 30 to 40 per cent off advance purchase sales. If mobility is an issue, look for accessible rooms or ones without a bath. Some over-bath showers can be high and tricky to safely step into.