Melbourne is shimmering, sunlight playfully bouncing off the skyscrapers. After a six-year absence, I am in an Uber from the airport to the CBD for a whirlwind three nights in Australia’s cultural capital. Outside my hotel, autumn leaves are gently fluttering to the ground. The sun is shining. It’s winter, but feels decidedly less wintry than Perth.

Home for the first night is Hyde Melbourne Place. I’m in an Urban Soak room whose freestanding bath is next to a window with curtains that most definitely need to be closed to avoid giving the neighbours a peepshow. I have a stack of food recommendations but with limited time, I head downstairs to Marmelo, a swish dining room crowned Gourmet Traveller’s Victorian restaurant of the year in 2025. I part with $45 for the steak, hen’s egg and crisps lunch special and have a satisfying meal, and my first Melbourne coffee, served by friendly staff in suits.

A quick stroll and I’m in Bourke Street, where several new hotels have sprung up right in the mall. A few buildings are shuttered or under renovation, not unlike Hay Street. Everyone talks about Mecca’s new 4000sqm flagship store. I’m not interested in shopping but the beauty retailer’s home, the Art Deco E.W. Cole building, is stunning. A detour to Royal Arcade takes me to Agathe Patisserie, and a quick pandan-flavoured custard heart. I also pick up a jar of cookies at Bake Stand, a fun space on the ground floor of the hotel.

The bold decor of Hyde Melbourne Place includes carpets in shades of blue and green, and pink and terracotta exposed brick walls. The lifts are programmed so you can’t change your destination once inside, so each time I travel to the eighth floor, I seem to be accompanied by someone looking lost and confused. Hyde’s rooftop bar and restaurant, Cleo, is cleverly set up for all Melbourne weather conditions. Photos of its circular brick “eye” windows framing the city are popular on social media, but it takes more time and skill than I have to get the perfect shot.

I’m hitting the town with Visit Victoria for a taste of what’s new. Our first stop is Disuko, an izakaya and vinyl bar inspired by 1980s Tokyo, complete with an eight-seat omakase counter called Half Moon. We share wagyu tataki, pork gyoza and crispy spicy tuna bites. I have a shogun mocktail with green tea, lemon, yuzu and ginger beer from the 24-page drink menu. I’m mesmerised by the installation of mirror balls but there’s no time to linger.

We’re off to arguably the hottest place in town, Frenchie, where all dishes and drinks are $14. That’s no typo; it’s $14 for six escargots with brioche, three oysters, confit duck, Parisian gnocchi, steak tartare, and much more. The only dishes not priced at $14 are the $7 fries, and the bread and butter. A neon French bulldog lights up the building facade but the pitch-black entry with red lights feels like something out of Twin Peaks. Inside, the vibe is semi-industrial, with staff in boiler suits. There’s also a roving trolley of caviar bumps and Mumm champagne on hand to make your meal a bit more bougie. Frenchie is “French food without the rules” and the food, c’est magnifique. Could someone bring this concept to Perth, s’il vous plait?

Our last stop of the night is LB’s, the first Melbourne venue for successful Sydney hospitality group Merivale. Located in Meyers Place, the listening bar takes its name from Lily Blacks, the cocktail bar that previously occupied the site. There’s a fun drinks list and I choose something made with snow, which ends up like a slushie in a coupette. It’s Wednesday night and the place is jumping. I recognise Sade and Jamiroquai on the playlist. Our group has secured a corner table but lots of young people are happily grooving on top of bench seats along the walls facing the DJ booth. Vinyl bars are having a moment in Melbourne, with a detailed list on the Visit Victoria website. Open seven nights a week, it’s first in, best dressed at LB’s but since there’s no dress code, come as you are.

It’s a safe and easy stroll back to Hyde Melbourne Place for a good night’s sleep. The hotel is also close to the major theatres, including The Princess Theatre, home to A Beautiful Noise: The Neil Diamond Musical from August 5 to October 11. My room has the perfect view and bed for lazing in all day but upstairs at Cleo, I have a breakfast date with coffee and a bowl of five-grain porridge. Plus, my last chance to get some more photos of those Insta-famous windows.

+ Sue Yeap was a guest of Visit Victoria. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication.

fact file

Rates at Hyde Melbourne Place typically start from $260, with Urban Soak rooms from $446. hydehotels.com/melbourne-place/
disuko.com.au
frenchierestaurant.au
merivale.com/venues/lbs-record-bar/
visitvictoria.com

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Dining delights in wintry Melbourne