Omotenashi is hard to define in English, but the Japan National Tourism Organisation website sums it up as “to wholeheartedly look after guests”. Aboard Mitsui Ocean Fuji, omotenashi is embraced as “a heartfelt way of hospitality characterised by thoughtfulness, sincerity and attention to detail”. Launched in December 2024, Mitsui Ocean Fuji continues the legacy of Nippon Maru, the much-loved cruise ship that, from 1990 until May 2026, sailed more than 2000 cruises, hosted more than 600,000 guests, and covered 2,877,642 nautical miles.

Operator Mitsui Ocean Cruises has a 140-year maritime history in Japan, offering domestic and international cruises with a focus on cultural enrichment, with ships that can visit smaller Japanese ports not accessible to big cruise ships. I’ve joined Japan’s most luxurious all-suite cruise ship to sail from Kobe to Kobe through the Seto Inland Sea, experiencing not just omotenashi but also “funatabi” — a relaxing journey on the water by ship to enjoy “beautiful encounters with Japan”. Over six days, I will be stopping at Yawatahama, Sasebo, Jeju Island in South Korea, and Kochi. It’s a great way to see new places and try new food and activities.

The ship’s about 360 crew from 25 countries are dedicated to making sure passengers enjoy the best of Japanese hospitality and culture from the moment they board. On sail-away day, my bags make it to my deck six veranda suite before I do. The surprises continue when I open the door. The bathroom is bigger than those in many land-based hotels, with a separate bath and double basins set in a stone vanity. There’s even the ubiquitous Toto bidet toilet. On my trip to Japan last September, I changed hotels four times in eight days. In April, I checked into seven hotels in 16 days. A benefit of cruising that should not be understated is only needing to unpack once. My suite has an abundance of hanging space, drawers, and cupboards to keep everything neat, out of sight, and off the floor. There’s even a separate dressing table in the entry.

Beds are typically configured as two singles but can be joined to form a queen. Suite amenities include a TV with English news channels, bath robes, slippers, and — something I had not anticipated — a kettle! The bar fridge is stocked with a selection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks including iced green tea. Mitsui Ocean Fuji is a 458-guest, almost 200m, 32,477-tonne ship that started life as Seabourn Odyssey before a significant refurbishment. Later this year she will be joined by Mitsui Ocean Sakura, formerly Seabourn Sojourn.

Despite being much smaller than Discovery Princess, which I sailed on in January, I still manage to get lost every other day on Mitsui Ocean Fuji. Do I turn left here, or right? Port or starboard? Up or down? True, I have a poor sense of direction, but the ship is also far more spacious than I anticipated. I manage to clock up steps without spending any time at the gym or recreation area. Pool Kohan is flanked by two hot tubs and is serviced by the Poolside Restaurant and Bar Kohan, offering light bites such as pizza, sandwiches, chilled ramen, and salads. There’s also Pool Cerulean and another pair of hot tubs. Each time I visit, there are never more than two or three people using the whole deck, although the closing time of 6pm means there is little chance to cool off after an afternoon on shore during Japan’s heatwave.

Illy Coffee is served at Mitsui Ocean Square & Cafe on deck seven, making it a popular spot to start the morning or spend the afternoon. The selection of chia pots, pastries and petite fruit salad bowls makes it my go-to for breakfast. The square is the heart of the ship, with a library, jigsaw table and lots of comfy seats to catch up for a chat or plan the day’s activities. Main dining room The Restaurant Fuji offers alternating western and Japanese menus, and on formal night, honours the ship Nippon Maru by serving its famous roast beef. Terrace Restaurant Hachiyo presents buffet meals and has a big outdoor dining deck for catching some glorious sunsets.

There is a different themed cuisine station available in Hachiyo each night, and Indian night is a highlight. You can pre-order an omakase sushi set during the cruise for an additional charge, or a treasure box afternoon tea. The only restaurant that costs extra is Hokusai Fine Dining, which is about $136 per person for a multi-course French-Japanese fusion menu by acclaimed chef and restaurateur Kiyomi Mikuni.

The restaurant is named after The Great Wave artist Katsushika Hokusai but the decor is New York grill meets Parisian bistro, complete with cheese cart at the end of the meal. A quick room service lunch before an afternoon shore excursion delivers me one of my favourite dishes, cold soba noodles and a serve of pressed sushi. It wouldn’t be a cruise without entertainment, which ranges from a classic pop and rock production by the Mitsui Ocean Fuji house band, singers and dancers to Argentine tango featuring bandoneon player Tatatoki Suzuki. Observation Bar 36 resident singer-pianist Khevin Almario has a fabulous voice. I can’t resist a visit to the 10pm-11pm snack buffet, and discover lots of night owls having a quick bite here, or last drinks in the Ocean Club and Bar. During our one sea day, I try to cram in as many activities as I can.

Having already had a crack on a real drum during our port call at Yawatahama, I start the morning at a taiko drumming movement session before trying my hand at origami. Sea days are typically the busiest for spas, so I get in early to buy myself a 75-minute special including massage and eye treatment for $175. We have smooth, calm waters for almost the entire cruise, with beautiful sunrises and sunsets bursting with pastel pinks, burnt oranges and rich reds.

The only movement I feel is on the leg from Kochi to Kobe, and that is because of some slightly stronger wind rather than bumpy seas. On our sailing, most of the passengers are Japanese. There are lots of bows, smiles and laughs, and I end up in a few family photos. All crew speak Japanese and English, so language is never a barrier. Mitsui Ocean Fuji has a range of itineraries departing from Kobe, Tokyo and Yokohama.

A six-night cruise from Kobe in April starts from $6280 per person. Cruises include food, most drinks such as barista coffee, wine, beer and cocktails, wi-fi, gratuities, and one half-day shore excursion in every port with English-speaking guides. In February the ship starts a 34-night cruise from Cairns to Yokohama, with Cairns also in 25 and 46-night itineraries.

Sue Yeap

All aboard, wholeheartedly