Being Black and proud is a direct connection to our melanin, and while Black may not crack, it does crease, which has led Black Love to learn how to master melanated skin for the greater good of our community. Because Black love is self care. Life can be rough sometimes, yet you can maintain smooth skin with the proper knowledge and care. Stress, hormones, genetics, chemicals, and the environment can show up on your face and body as skin conditions that prevent you from looking and feeling your best. For melanated skin, these challenges are often compounded by unique needs and nuances. That is why Black Love is thrilled to dedicate this space to your skincare needs by featuring first-person stories, expert commentary and video content.

Skin care in the Black community has long been influenced by a blend of traditional practices, cultural knowledge and systemic challenges. Historically, skincare solutions for melanated skin were — and still are — passed down through generations, relying on common natural remedies like shea butter, coconut oil, and aloe vera. As time has passed, Black skin care has evolved from our grandma’s special salve into groundbreaking creams, cleansers, serums, body butters, moisturizers, and options for prescribed treatment.

“Melanated skin has remarkable strengths, including a natural SPF of about 13 due to higher melanin content,” explains Dr. Naana Boakye a board-certified, integrative dermatologist. “But it also has unique challenges; for melanated skin, understanding its unique needs is crucial to developing skincare routines that foster healthy skin from head to toe.”

Dr. Boakye of Bergen Dermatology is the co-founder of Karité shea butter body cream, and her Dr. Naana Boakye skincare line is formulated with scientifically backed, clinically tested ingredients such as amino acids, niacinamide, peptides, and bakuchiol (a naturally derived alternative to retinol) to balance skin’s pH, lock in moisture and gently brighten without irritation. (BlackLove.com readers can get 15% off Dr. Naana Beauty products using this link.)

Our melanin is a gift that requires special care due to its distinct qualities. Along with the SPF benefit noted by Dr. Boakye, melanin also reduces the signs of aging, which explains our natural glow and why it is often hard to pinpoint our auntie’s exact age. Did someone say antioxidants? Melanin has natural antioxidant effects which help neutralize harmful free radicals that contribute to aging and disease. Since our ancestors come from the Motherland, it makes sense that our melanin can regulate body temperature by affecting how we absorb and retain heat. Beyond our coveted exterior of various hues, some forms of melanin, like neuromelanin in the brain, help protect nerve cells and play a role in cognitive function.

In addition to these melanin-rich benefits, Dr. Boakye notes some nuances to consider when developing a skincare regimen. Here’s a breakdown:

1. Higher Desquamation Rate:

Melanin-rich skin has a higher rate of desquamation (the shedding of outer skin cells) compared to lighter skin tones. While this process supports natural renewal, it may contribute to a tendency toward dryness if the skin barrier isn’t adequately supported with moisturizing and barrier-repairing ingredients.

2. Lower Ceramide Levels:

Melanin-rich skin tends to have lower ceramide content, a crucial lipid that helps maintain hydration and prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Lower ceramides can result in dry, flaky skin, making moisturizing products with ceramides or ceramide precursors an essential part of care.

3. Thicker Stratum Corneum:

The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, is slightly thicker in melanin-rich skin. While this provides enhanced protection against environmental damage, it also necessitates targeted treatments to address conditions like hyperpigmentation since products may need deeper penetration to be effective.

4. Thicker Dermal-Epidermal Junction:

The dermal-epidermal junction, where the dermis meets the epidermis, is thicker in melanin-rich skin. This feature may contribute to a slower aging process, as it provides additional structural support that resists sagging and wrinkling.

5. Propensity for Keloids

Melanin-rich skin is more prone to keloid formation due to potentially larger fibroblasts (cells that play a role in wound healing and tissue maintenance). This predisposition makes it essential to approach wound healing carefully, avoiding unnecessary trauma to the skin and using treatments designed to minimize excessive scarring.

6. Increased Itch Intensity

African-American skin has been found to have larger dermal mast cell granules, which can amplify itch responses. Conditions like eczema may present with more intense itching, requiring itch-specific treatments.

These unique qualities lead to common issues with melanated skin such as:

1. Hyperpigmentation

Melanin-producing cells (melanocytes) in darker skin are more reactive to inflammation or injury, often leading to dark spots or uneven skin tone. Conditions like acne scars, eczema, or razor bumps can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
2. Eczema (Atopic Dermatitis)

Eczema disproportionately affects Black people, presenting as dry, itchy, scaly skin, and inflamed patches of skin. The condition can be exacerbated by stress, harsh soaps, and environmental triggers.
3. Keloids

Due to an increased collagen response during wound healing, Black individuals are more prone to developing keloids — raised, thick scars that extend beyond the injury site.
4. Acne and Acne Scarring

Acne is common, but in melanated skin, it often leads to hyperpigmentation or scarring. Treating acne in darker skin requires gentle approaches to avoid worsening discoloration.
5. Seborrheic Dermatitis

This condition causes flaking and redness, often affecting the scalp, face, or other oil-rich areas. It may appear differently in melanated skin, with less redness and more scaling.
6. Vitiligo

A condition where pigment-producing cells are damaged, leading to patches of depigmented skin. Though it affects all skin types, its appearance is more pronounced in melanated skin.
7. Dryness (Ashiness)

Melanated skin can lose moisture quickly, making dryness more noticeable. This often leads to a grayish or “ashy” appearance if not adequately moisturized

Eczema is especially prevalent in our community and often misdiagnosed due to how it may sometimes present on melanated skin as dark brown, purple, or ashen gray. Many doctors are trained to identify eczema as a red rash on white skin.

Actress, mom, and activist Tia Mowry, who partnered with Aveeno to spread awareness about eczema in Black communities, opened up about her struggles with eczema. The “Sister, Sister” and Black Love Doc alum shared with People how she was misdiagnosed by her pediatrician during her childhood. “When I was young I had these round spots on my arms, and they were raised and they were itchy. But when my mother would take me to the pediatrician, the doctor told us they were sunspots … and that’s definitely not what I had.”

Singer and actress, Kelly Rowland discovered that eczema inflammation can also develop after hormonal changes to the body such as pregnancy. She first experienced flare ups on her back after the birth of her oldest son, Titan. She shared with Allure the advice she received from a fellow mom when her youngest son, Noah developed eczema. “Emu oil! I was talking to another mom about it. She’s like, ‘You should try emu oil,’ so I got some. She told me how great it was for her babies, and it definitely helped mine.”

Celebrity fashion designer, stylist, and Black Love Doc alum Jason Bolden starts with his skin when getting dressed, thus he credits his use of Eucerin’s Eczema Relief as his “go to” because it is “lightweight, hydrating and fast-absorbing.” Actress Kerry Washington, who has lived with eczema since she was 8-years-old, shared with Glamour, “It’s so important to have hydration on the inside, but also find products that can really lock in moisture on the outside.”

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Dr. Boakye advises that effectively managing eczema involves avoiding triggers, daily moisturization and using anti-inflammatory treatments. Choose gentle, fragrance-free products enriched with ceramides, shea butter, sunflower seed oil, or jojoba oil to hydrate and repair the skin barrier. Anti-inflammatory options, including prescription medications and bleach baths, can help reduce symptoms and prevent flare-ups.

Let’s be real: The start of 2025 hasn’t made it easy to keep our stress levels down. But stress management is essential to maintaining optimal skin health. Whether it’s meditation, therapy, or just taking a moment to breathe, finding ways to unwind is critical. As difficult as it may feel, managing stress can directly improve your skin health and overall well-being.

“Our skin often reflects our internal health, and stress can significantly disrupt even the most diligent skincare routines,” cautions Dr. Boakye. “Elevated stress levels increase cortisol, the body’s primary stress hormone, setting off a chain reaction that can trigger inflammation.” The effects of this include:

Aggravating eczema flare-ups or worsening existing skin conditions
Increasing oil production, leading to clogged pores and acne
Slowing the skin’s natural repair processes, causing dullness and irritation

Christian Hawkins, a licensed esthetician, massage therapist and co-creator of Regeily Luxury Body Skin Care shares Dr. Boakye’s sentiments about the dangers of unmanaged stress, while also noting other variables that are beyond your control. “Reducing stress and identifying what brings you joy can reduce flareups,” she says. She adds, “Genetic predispositions also make you prone to develop certain skin conditions. Understanding your genetic tendencies can help you tailor your skincare routine to effectively address your skin’s unique needs.”

Diamond Brown, founder/CEO of Diamond’s Body Care, a plant based brand used in several Marriott Hotel spas echoes Hawkins and Dr. Boakye. “Stress also plays a significant role in skin health. It can cause dryness, trigger eczema inflammation, and contribute to other visible signs of fatigue,” she says. “Coping mechanisms such as excessive alcohol consumption, smoking, or vaping further harm your skin’s appearance. When you nurture your mental well-being, it often shines through in your skin’s appearance as well.”

Other experts like Selena Parker, founder/creator of Socialite Body Essentials agree that while stress is inevitable, lifestyle choices can either ease or exacerbate its effect on your skin. “Everything you ingest from food, to gossip, to trauma, to unrealistic self-imposed expectations, to chronic stress, sends a signal to your body,” says Parker whose staple of body butters, hair care and herbal salves and teas began as a way to treat her daughter’s adverse reaction to store bought products. “The thing we don’t realize is that even though sometimes we don’t automatically have a reaction to these things, the body keeps score.”

Parker highlights how issues with your skin are an indicator of inflammation somewhere in the body. If your liver isn’t filtering like it should your blood may be toxic, or your kidneys may be are stressed, or your gut health may be imbalanced. “If you eat a lot of meat, it is imperative to have periods where you simply do not have it every day,” she says. “If you are only drinking 16oz of water per day, it’s imperative to eat water based fruits and increase the amount of water you’re ingesting to keep your bowels moving and bodily fluids flowing.”

It is crucial to be aware of internal factors such as hormones, genetics and stress that affect our skin as well as external factors such as climate change and environmental conditions. As the seasons change, your skin care needs will vary. Products rich in emollients such as Regeily’s shea based body butter and Karité’s creme corps, are options for protecting your melanin from the elements. “It’s important to switch up your summer skincare routine and your winter skin protection during seasonal changes,” advises Hawkins. “During the fall/winter months the humidity drops and the cold air absorbs the moisture in your skin faster. During the spring and summer months the warm air can retain moisture better allowing for the use of light oils to maintain proper moisture levels.”

Dr. Boakye agrees that “cold, dry air depletes moisture, leading to flakiness and tightness” during the winter, and the summer brings “increased sun exposure and humidity can lead to sweat-related irritation, breakouts, or exacerbation of hyperpigmentation,” which is why she recommends “lightweight, non-comedogenic tinted sunscreens, such as those formulated for darker skin tones, and cleansers that won’t strip moisture.” Although melanin is mighty, Black people are not immune to skin cancer. Wearing sunscreen is necessary for protection from UV rays, prevention of sunburn and to slow premature aging.

Skin care requires a consistent regimen that must continue even when you travel. Fortunately, there are a bevy of Black owned skincare brands specially designed for melanated skin. Vanita Sanders, founder of Hekima Skin Care (Hekima means “wisdom” in Swahili), which offers body butters and oils shared insight on how to prepare while packing for your next trip. “It’s important to research not only the weather, but also the water quality in the areas that you are traveling to. All water is not created the same once it goes through the filtration process,” she says. “Your skin may not be used to the higher levels of minerals, chlorine and contaminates that can cause dryness and irritation. It is important to bring a facial and body mist that will counteract these elements.”

While variety may be the spice of life in some instances, it is best to find what works for your skin and stick with it. Brown encourages you to avoid the pitfall of becoming a “skincare junkie.” Jumping from product to product limits effectiveness. When you’re constantly trying new things, overusing or mixing incompatible ingredients, your skin can become more sensitive or irritated.

When researching and testing which products work best, along with the ingredients previously mentioned, it is recommended to use products which contain key components such as hyaluronic acid, vitamin C serum, kokum, macadamia, cupuacu, avocado or shea butters; coconut, jojoba, argan or camellia seed oils, Vitamin E; ashwagandha. Products will vary, which is why Black Love will provide updates on impactful brands and practices.

Your lifestyle choices as well as the products you use are an essential part of achieving the best skin of your life. As a lifestyle dermatologist, Dr. Boakye guides her patients as they adopt holistic strategies for overall well-being. Consuming wholesome, nutrient-dense foods while avoiding ultra-processed options, staying active through regular exercise, practicing mindful meditation, and prioritizing restful sleep all play a pivotal role. That also means removing that Superwoman cape, ladies. Lessen your stress levels in every way. These habits not only help balance hormones and reduce inflammation but also enhance skin regeneration, promoting a healthier and more radiant complexion.

Sanders, whose products are dedicated to women with mature melanin such as those experiencing perimenopause, gives a reminder for men, women and children of all ages. “The skin is the largest organ on our body. What we put on it is absorbed and travels throughout our bloodstream and to our internal organs. We have to be vigilant about how we care for our temples and when we notice changes, seek professional help from a licensed esthetician, dermatologist or medical professional.”

Dr. Boakye notes how many individuals struggle in silence or turn to unverified remedies found on social media, leading to frustration and delayed progress. Prescription treatments exist for conditions like acne, rosacea, and eczema, and there is no shame in seeking medical support when you need it. Early intervention, teaching healthy habits during childhood, seeking education about and resources for proper skin care can prevent long-term damage and help you feel more confident in your skin.

It is important to remember your lifestyle, environment, genetics and skincare routine all play an integral part in the condition of your skin. Being intentional about your skin is an essential part of self-care. At Black Love, we believe in prioritizing self-care as an act of self-love. Because when we glow, we show the world what true beauty looks like. Your skin is an extension of you — beautiful, resilient, and deserving of intentional TLC. As we dive into 2025, let’s commit to looking and feeling our best, together. Keep an eye on this page for more stories, advice, and inspiration to help you along the way.

Let’s make 2025 a year of your best skin — from the inside out!

1. Higher Desquamation Rate:

2. Lower Ceramide Levels:

3. Thicker Stratum Corneum:

4. Thicker Dermal-Epidermal Junction:

5. Propensity for Keloids

6. Increased Itch Intensity

1. Hyperpigmentation

2. Eczema (Atopic Dermatitis)

3. Keloids

4. Acne and Acne Scarring

5. Seborrheic Dermatitis

6. Vitiligo

7. Dryness (Ashiness)

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The Best Skin of Your Life - Black Love