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My 1-day itinerary recommendation is:
08:00 Breakfast at The Bushmills Inn
10:00 Benone to Downhill Beach Walk
Drive another 30 minutes up the coast to Benone, taking in the stunning view through the cliffs down the steep Mussenden road. Carry on past Downhill beach along the coast road and turn right into the pristine white sands of award-winning Benone Strand. Park on the entrance to the beach, wrap up warm and walk back down the sand (right) toward Downhill Beach.
You’ll enjoy an ever-looming view of the colossal Mussenden Temple perched on the cliff above, with views of Portrush and Portstewart in the distance. Beyond the headland lies the next beach along, Castlerock, from which you can also view the other side of the temple. You’ll have to take your shoes off about 4/5 of the way there to ford the little river (Downhill Burn shown below). It starts up in the Binevenagh cliff waterfalls on your right as you walk and runs right under the road and railway behind the sand dunes then across the sand and out into the Atlantic.
Take as many pictures as you like. It’s simply impossible to take a bad one with with the seemingly larger-than-life expanse of sand, sea and sky. This easy 2.9 mile trek is especially blissful in the windier ‘shoulder’ seasons with crashing waves – although on most days, a hoodie is recommended. The Atlantic wind coming off the sea can be very chilly.
Tell me if your soul isn’t better after that walk.
13:45 Gortmore Viewing Point & Irish Sea God, Manannan Mac Lir
Next, take a drive up the very steep Bishops Road and carry on just a couple of miles to Gortmore Viewing Point where you’ll find free, if windy, parking. Make sure you take in both upper and lower viewing points. The upper viewing platform is at the trig point with useful signage showing you the surrounding peaks. The Irish sea god, Manannan Mac Lir, stands with hands extended to the sea. (He was once kidnapped – by an iconoclast, no doubt!)
The lower viewing point has stone bench seating and a viewing platform, providing astonishing views out over Magilligan Point, Donegal and even two of the Hebridean islands – Isley and Jura. It’s a great place for budding ornithologists too. Pack your binos!
If you’re feeling energetic, you could try the Gortmore to Hell’s Hole trail (I’ve not done it).
14:45 Mid Afternoon Munchies
Drive back down the steep Bishop’s Road toward Downhill beach and then straight up the Mussenden Road in the direction of Castlerock and Coleraine. Make a pit-stop on your way back at any of the inexpensive cafes or coffee shops along the route:
- Sea Shed Coffee and Surf, Benone Strand (and a seasonal pop-up in Downhill Forest)
- Willow Garden Tea Room at the Pretty Crafty Design Studio and Cafe (bonus art!) – peacocks roam and honk in the garden as you brunch, magical!
- The Surf Shack, Castlerock
15:30 Mussenden Template and Downhill Demesne Estate/Downhill Forest
- If you’re up that way already, visiting the glorious Mussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne will nicely round off your day (enter through Lion’s Gate). There is a bonus dovecote and ice-house.
- The estate closes at 17:00, so if you run out of time, on another visit to the area, you could start instead at the Bishop’s Gate entrance to enjoy the gardens that lead up through an alternative forest trail entrance to the temple and demesne.
- If you’re not a culture-vulture or on a tight budget, take in the free Downhill Forest across the road instead.
Come Back Another Day
Admittedly, an 11am start is probably not enough time to enjoy everything at your leisure.
- You could simply follow brunch at The French Rooms with another beautiful, coastal cliff walk to try, closer to Bushmills, is the Portballintrae Causeway Loop. Start at the Beach Road carpark in Portballintrae. It is not recommend for kids as there is no rail and the trail is close to the edge.
- Or, you could start the day much earlier with breakfast instead at The Bushmills Inn.
