People walking La Rambla in Barcelona — Barcelona has a lot of visitors but that's not always a good thing. Roberto Machado Noa/Getty Images

I really enjoyed growing up in Barcelona but moved away 10 years ago.
I'd love to return to my home city, but the cost of living and many tourists make it difficult.
There have been signs of change, but I still feel Barcelona prioritizes visitors over residents.

I loved growing up in Barcelona.

There's nothing like the shimmering Mediterranean Sea at the foot of the Collserola mountain range, its monuments celebrating Spanish and Catalan culture, the festivals steeped in centuries of tradition, and even its scars of the 1936 Civil War— bullet holes in walls and alleyways that stand eerily at chest height.

From an early age, it was a playground for my friends and me, made accessible by a robust public transportation system and a low cost of living.

Yet, in all my memories of beautiful parks and Gaudi-esque architecture soaked in near-eternal sunshine, I cannot remember the first time I saw the all-too-common graffiti that I see now: "Tourists go home."

I moved out of Barcelona about 10 years ago, partly because of tourism's impact on locals. Now, at 27, my parents and grandmother are aging, and I'm thinking of moving back.

But the choice isn't easy, especially when it feels like Barcelona prioritizes visitors over residents.

Tourism has been booming for decades, but Barcelona has become too reliant on it

Tourists at Sagrada de Familia — Spain is a popular tourist destination. JOSEP LAGO/Getty Images

Barcelona is a major tourism destination year-round, and it has been for a while. According to the Barcelona Tourism Observatory, the city received 15.6 million tourists alone last year.

Tourism accounts for about 15% of the city's economy, which is bad news for the many locals who aren't reaping the benefits of having millions of visitors in their home.

Sure, tourism brings more jobs to Barcelona — but even if that was a career path I wanted to pursue, many of them aren't built to support the actual cost of living in the city.

Research published in Paradigm Academic Press in July found that the majority of new jobs in Barcelona's hospitality industry were only part time, and the average monthly wage in this sector is 1,200 euros or $1,327 — 300 euros less than the city's average wage.

Meanwhile, Spanish newspaper El País, citing official data, reported that the average monthly rent in Barcelona in the third quarter of 2023 was about 1,171 euros or $1,295.

But housing has become an issue for workers across industries. Spain's housing crisis — worsened by many homes becoming Airbnbs — means it's hard to find an affordable place to live.

It's one of my concerns when I think of returning to Barcelona. Many of my friends must live with their parents well into their 30s because they're struggling to afford to rent an apartment with roommates.

Some residents are also forced to split another limited essential resource: water.

In recent years, Barcelona and the greater Catalonia region have experienced and been vulnerable to droughts. Water rationing is becoming a new reality for many residents, who are expected to keep their resource usage low and limited while hoping globetrotting guests do the same.

It's hard to imagine moving back to a place where residents' basic necessities are often sacrificed for a single industry.

Recent protests show how much urgent change is needed — and why I'm not sure I'm ready to go back

Some Barcelona protesters are pushing back against the city's overtourism. SOPA Images/Getty Images

Last month, friends sent me videos of the viral anti-tourism protesters squirting water pistols at tourists. The protesters echoed a sentiment shared by many residents: We need fewer tourists, especially in already overcrowded areas.

Local politicians have taken some actions, like limiting the number of hotel beds allowed in Barcelona and raising the cruise tourist tax for those who spend less than 12 hours in the city.

Barcelona City Hall took action against short-term rentals like Airbnb when it announced it would not renew licenses allowing people to rent their apartments to tourists after they expire in 2028. This is partly to help residents deal with rising rent and real-estate costs.

But we need faster changes and more sustainable tourism, which starts with less tourism overall.

I hope people can come and enjoy the beauty of my home city, but I want them to realize their impact and rise to the challenge of being a tourist in a city that is loved by too many.

Maybe it starts with tourists prioritizing small businesses during their trips or visiting lesser-known spots in the city instead of areas that are already overwhelmed.

As for myself, I'm hoping that residents' desire to reimagine Barcelona as it was — not a tourist destination or the backdrop of an Instagram photo, but as a living city — shapes the city's policies going forward.

Perhaps it'll lead to positive changes — like more affordable housing and stable employment opportunities — so I can finally book a one-way ticket home.

Home

I grew up in Barcelona and live in the US. I'd love to go home, but tourism is making life unbearable for locals.