Whirlybird bistro review: Welcoming, bustling charm

Breaking the tourist hotspot mould, this bistro is a relaxed spot for a hearty and sophisticated lunch

To succeed in the heart of touristville, Edinburgh’s restaurants tend to follow a bit of a blueprint: a promise of historic pedigree; quick table flipping; and long, unadventurous and often wipeable menus that definitely feature haggis. No surprise, locals tend to avoid them. That’s perhaps why there’s been lots of buzz about Whirlybird on Victoria Street; the word is ‘it’s in the Old Town, but actually good’.

Once you’ve squeezed between the folk queuing for the hog roast and the Harry Potter shop either side, Whirlybird has, despite the name, a relaxed atmosphere. Led by former Herringbone operations manager Ash Bairstow and head chef Lucia Gregusova, it’s set over four rooms and two floors. The 250-year-old building (that housed Maison Bleue for decades) has been stripped back to expose brick walls, stone arches and a listed spiral staircase. Cocktails are expertly shaken at a long, curved bar, with a tempting list by Jono McDowell (ex-Panda & Sons).

For lunch, chowder is a treat, with mussels, prawns and smoked haddock in a creamy potato and leek broth, split with herb oil: a worthy twist on Cullen skink served with Freedom Bakery sourdough toast. A big salad of smoked mackerel and marinated new potatoes comes with pickled fennel, and the crunch of coriander seeds and smoked almonds. It’s fresh, filling and well-balanced. A side of broccoli just misses the mark, the florets falling apart and a miso butter that doesn’t deliver the anticipated savoury note, but it’s a minor quibble. Overall, it’s an excellent lunch spot and worth noting that while the dinner menu adds a few dishes, happily there’s no jump in price. You may have to squeeze through the crowds, but this new spot is definitely worth a whirl.

Whirlybird, 36–38 Victoria Street, Edinburgh; average price £30 for two courses; picture: Alix McIntosh.

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Whirlybird bistro review: Welcoming, bustling charm