Four mates, four very different bikes and some of Victoria’s greatest roads just begging to be ridden…

Nearly all the motorcycle segments covered in one shot

When you think of Victoria, it’s often with that old “four seasons in one day” chestnut. More recently, with the world’s changing weather patterns, those abrupt seasonal variations have been more pronounced. But not so on our summer foray into Victoria’s vast and varied Gippsland region.

With the weather gods smiling, four of us – myself, Peter Washington, Bill Werner and Hugh Gooden – set out to ride the much-vaunted Great Alpine Road, a true sea-to-sky adventure that can be approached on virtually any type of motorcycle.

Now, I know many of you reading this will be quick to point out the plethora of unsealed variations this itinerary can conjure, and yes, we have explored the Dargo road on previous excursions. Still, this time we’ll be sticking to the tarmac.

Similarly, our little posse comprises a mix of new and old bikes of varying specifications. Of particular note are our two test bikes; the much-talked-about CFMoto 450MT adventure bike and the more conventional Royal Enfield Super Meteor 650 will be our focus.

Owner Mark Lines has got this tourist malarkey gig all sewn up at Noojee’s Toolshed

A NOD TO NOOJEE

From Peter’s ‘ranch’ near Mt Dandenong, our first leg is a lazy couple of hours eastward along the C425 to Noojee, a popular weekend waypoint for daytrippers looking for some rural flavours within coo-ee of Melbourne. The former railway town celebrates its locomotive history with some rolling stock at the old station and the much-photographed timber trestle bridge, now part of a popular rail trail.

Tip-toeing through the trees on the second day of an awesome ride

We meet Mark Lines, the owner of the Toolshed complex since 2021, roaring around on his ride-on mower, catching up on groundwork between rain showers. I learn later he’d rather be tearing up one of the local trails on his dirt bike. I know many of you reading this will have enjoyed his hospitality on a sunny weekend when it’s not unusual to see 100 bikes or more filling the carpark.

“Local legend has it that townsfolk built the Toolshed out of an old chook shed after a falling out with the-then publican of the local hotel,” says Mark, “That was about 30 years ago, and it’s just grown from there.”

No shortage of crucial information but take time to read and obey it

It sure has. There’s a bright, barn-themed bistro, lovely gardens and very decent overnight cabins where we spend a restful night, tucked in by the sounds of the forest. A perfect start to this ride.

The crystal clear morning finds us at the local Little Red Duck Cafe and general store. I take the big breakfast challenge but have to concede defeat, leaving my failure for all to see on the manhole-sized plate. Needless to say, the ribbing and jibes continue for the rest of the ride.

The 650 Meteor suits those riders seeking a slower pace

I spend the majority of my saddle time on the CFMoto and find this mid-sized machine ideally suited to my 175cm frame. I shift effortlessly up and down the gears with ratios that seem perfectly suited to the tight and twisty roads with their constricting corners and brief straightaways. The brakes, too, are confidence-inspiring without being “grabby” or harsh. It’s enjoyable riding.

Spectacular Sullivans Lookout outside Mt Beauty

From Noojee, we head south on the C465 out of the forests to the rolling plains near Moe, then to the C105, a most pleasant alternative to the brutal A1, through Tyers, Glengarry and historic Cowwarr where the town has adapted old oil drums into colourful livestock just for shits and giggles. You know when you’re in Cowwarr.

After a frugal senior’s lunch at Maffra, we divert inland briefly before looping around the C-roads to Orbost and our final stop at the plush Bellevue Suites right on the waterfront at Lakes Entrance. I confess, these opulent rooms, complete with spa baths, are a notch or two above our regular digs, but the price was right and, well, we felt like spoiling ourselves. Dinner was at the always-popular Central Hotel, which – predictably – was packed even on a Tuesday night.

You realise how much wealth was kicking around these mountains when you see an old bank this size at Omeo

GIRD YOUR LOINS FOR THE GREAT ALPINE ROAD

A shout-out to the weather gods for another perfect morning for our big ride up The Road. The bland B500 title for the Great Alpine Road does nothing to reveal the joy of this length of bitumen that – officially – connects coastal Bairnsdale with inland Wangaratta, a distance of around 300km with a nominal driving/riding time of 4.5 hours.

As this is not our first foray along this tantalising tarmac, we explore some worthy detours, notably the C543 to Falls Creek via Anglers Rest, rejoining the GAR at Bright, then heading back via Hotham Heights and its stunning views from above the snowline and its stunted gum trees.

Empty roads and little bridge crossings are part of the charm

A day after our journey, a bizarre sinkhole collapse occurred – you may have seen news reports – blocking the road until repairs could be completed. I can be confident that by the time you read this, the road will be fully functional again.

Collapsing mine adits aren’t the only hazards you might encounter. Logging trucks, buses and over-exuberant boy racers present hazards for the unwary rider, so be sure to keep well within the lines on the many blind corners.

The 1940 Art Deco Golden Age Motel at Omeo

BENAMBRA DIVERSION

Our second night produces a delightful surprise, for us at least. Dirt riders will be familiar with the C545 that runs north out of Omeo towards Kosciuszko and the delightful pub that is the community hub of little Benambra, 20 klicks out of Omeo.

New owner Erin Tomkins welcomes us with open arms and shows us around the old pub, which traces its provenance back some 130 years (at least).

Sorry, mate, you’re not in some dainty inner-city smashed avocado cafe now!

“It started as a sly grog shop and boarding house of sorts,” Erin tells us over a refreshing ale. “Later it was run by a wily old Irishwoman, Mary ‘Ma’ Murphy, catering to the miners and squatters who turned up in the district from the 1830s. It’s had quite a history since.”

She’s not kidding, either. Renowned photographer Ken Duncan famously passed through once upon a time, shooting an iconic scene with local celebrity Ken Connelly (affectionately known in the area as the real Man From Snowy River) and his horse at the bar. And regulars still talk about the night Steve Irwin shouted the house.

You’ll see all types of motorcycles touring this route

Our digs are in the old section, full of creaking floorboards, while we take our meals in the billiard room, really an annexe adjacent to the main bar. The pizzas are brilliant and the steaks spot-on.

M M M to MELBOURNE

Our return path follows the traditional route of Omeo, Mt Hotham, Bright and Myrtleford, but we swing hard left at little Oxley to Mansfield (C521) and Marysville. We salute The Castle as we motor through Bonnie Doon and finish with a flourish along the Black Spur (B360) into home base.

The CFMoto 450 MT was a hoot through the twisty bits

I switch with Bill for a while, giving him some experience on the 450 MT, and he revels in it. Meanwhile, I’m not having quite so much fun on the Super Meteor. Clearly I had acclimatised to the more lithesome CFMoto, and the change to the Royal Enfield, with its forward riding position, is a bit of a jolt.

I’ve always been a fan of the venerable Royal Enfield for lots of reasons but threading it through the tight mountain roads is not my best memory. Brake pressure, especially on the rear, takes some getting used to as it wants to bite a bit too hard in trail braking. The lusty 650 twin, however, has no trouble at all and delivers low-down torque with ease. The minimal dash is missing a tachometer, but there is basic navigation via the Bluetooth dial and Tripper app, a feature currently missing from the CFMoto.

Taking things easier produces a more pleasurable ride so, in my case at least, riding at a more age-appropriate pace seems to be the formula I need to adopt.

The Great Alpine Road deserves its reputation as one of the country’s foremost riding roads. In either direction, it beckons to be challenged but also demands respect. Sweeping, rolling curves, well signposted and a predictable, smooth surface make it a joy to ride.

It’s hard to drag yourself away from views like this

And so endeth our alpine pilgrimage to the heights of Hotham and back, an appropriate bookend to that other great Victorian road, The Great Ocean Road, a story for another time.

With Rod Eime’s background in journalism and Peter’s in motoring event management, they’ve been friends for more than 30 years. They’ve shared countless thousand klicks of tarmac and more wild rides than either will admit. From classic car rallies, Grand Prix sideshows and their sometimes bawdy after-parties, they’ve now settled into a more relaxed pace in their late middle age, taking to the road on motorcycles, exploring the Aussie countryside and riding our many great roads. Stay tuned for many more adventures!

KNOW YOUR REGION

The Great Alpine Road has existed in one form or another for well over 100 years and was declared a main road in 1914 after the passing of the Country Roads Act of 1912. Its total length is 303.7km and it rises to an altitude of 1840m (6040 ft) at Mount Hotham. It was unsealed for most of its existence, with the final sections at Dinner Plain sealed before the end of 1998. The title, Great Alpine Road, was bestowed in 1996, incorporating the existing Ovens and Omeo Highways. For an overview of visitor attractions and activities in all of Gippsland, visit the official website at visitgippsland.com.au

Highlights and Photo Opps

No.21 DredgerAustralia has a fixation for big things and this jigger takes the cake. This monster dug coal out of Morwell for nearly 70 years.

This magnificent timber rail bridge hasn’t seen a train for more than 60 years but stands as a reminder of the importance of rail in the early days – and the big stuff you can build with hardwood.

Danny’s LookoutAt 1700m on the GAR, you have to stop and tip your hat to Danny, named after Danny Cavedon, the friendly and faithful local RACV agent in the 1970s.

Cars, bikes, gift shop and the kettle is always on. Not a vast collection of bikes, but a good cross-section worthy of your attention nonetheless. Be sure to check out Archie’s Garage and the huge model car collection.

WHERE TO STAY

The Toolshed Noojee(03) 5628 966info@toolshednoojee.com.au

Bellevue Suites, Lakes Entrance03 5150 9488www.bellevuelakes.com.au

Benambra Hotel(03) 5159 9214benambrahotel.au

WHERE TO EAT

The Toolshed Noojee(03) 5628 966info@toolshednoojee.com.au

Little Red Duck Cafe1 Bennett St, Noojee(03) 5628 9613

Central Hotel, Lakes Entrance321 Esplanade(03) 5155 1977

High Country Cafe, Omeo184 Day Ave (the main street)(03) 5159 1272

Maffra Community Sports Club122/126 Johnson St(03) 5141 1566

TRAVEL | Great Alpine Road